Sir Paul Smith is arguably the most successful British fashion designer ever. Since opening his first shop in Nottingham in 1970 he has built an international business that has defined the way three generations of men – and latterly women - have dressed.
With a sense of wit and elegance and a love of tradition, he has opened fashion up, offering a wry and distinctive take on the everyday in the process. He was the first British designer to conquer the Japanese market, and is as visible there as he is in the UK. He is now in every major market, from the US to Korea.
The business, still based in Nottingham, now has turnover of £325m, and as chairman and designer, Sir Paul is still involved in every aspect of it.
What made you decide to become a fashion designer?
I got a racing bike for my 11th birthday and racing was my passion until I was 17. But then I had a serious accident and spent three months in hospital. There I met people who later introduced me to the Bell Inn in Nottingham, where all the students from the local art college went. Slowly I got very interested in the whole world of creativity and helped one of the students start a clothes shop, then opened my own shop with a small amount of savings, and met one of the teachers from the art school, who then became my wife. She taught me everything I know. My passion for cycling never faltered, though.
What are you working on now?
I'm working on next year's collection. In fact not one but 13 collections, so it's always very busy. In addition to designing the clothes we have in-house shop design and graphics and also I photograph all our own advertising campaigns as well as working for several magazines, shooting fashion portraiture or interiors. This really is an extension of a hobby.
Which project do you think defined your career?
The thing that springs to mind is the very early days of designing clothes for men, and nudging the British male into being interested in more fashionable clothes.
Which other designers’ work do you admire?
I don't tend to look at other fashion designers’ work. I’m more interested in architecture or product design. I love the work of David Chipperfield, John Pawson and Herzog and de Meuron in architecture and Sam Hecht, Jasper Morrison and Thomas Heatherwick in product or furniture, to name a few.
If I wasn’t a fashion designer I’d be a…
Photographer, probably. Because my father was an amateur and I’ve been taking photographs since I was 11.
Any advice for young designers?
Unfortunately, just being able to design is not good enough today. You have to be more of an all-rounder as the world is so full of product. And so any form of experience as a young student is invaluable.
Images from the Paul Smith Autumn/Winter 2011 collection.