Stephen Jones has transformed millinery since he opened his first hat salon in 1980. Among those who trained in his workrooms are Philip Treacy and Noel Stewart.
Over the last 30 years, he’s worked with the likes of John Galliano, Comme des Garcons, Vivienne Westwood, Zandra Rhodes, Katherine Hamnett and Balenciaga. His designs have graced some of the world’s most famous heads, from Kylie Minogue to Princess Diana, and appeared on international catwalks, concert stages, cinema screens and museums. In 2009 he curated an exhibition of millinery at the V&A – in 2010 it was the second most visited decorative arts exhibition in the world.
In 2008 he landed the British Fashion Awards’ top prize, Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design, having already picked up the Accessory Designer of the Year prize in 2005.
Jones is the curator of Headonism, a collective of young London milliners who exhibit at London Fashion Week. He also teaches at the Royal College of Art and Central St Martins, where he’s an honorary professor.
What made you decide to become a millinery designer?
I didn't decide, somehow millinery chose me! At Central St Martin’s, I did a tailoring work placement at the couturiers Lachasse in Mayfair. Next to the tailors was the millinery workroom and I was fascinated and amazed by the hats, their manufacture and the larger-than-life people who created them. I asked for a transfer and after the first day I knew it was what I wanted to do.
What are you working on right now?
My own collection for Spring 2012, Chinoiserie-on-Sea, loosely based on Brighton. I’m starting new collaborations with fashion designers in New York and Milan as well as eleven designer hat collections for catwalks in London and Paris. The exhibition I curated at the V&A, Hats, an Anthology by Stephen Jones opens in New York in September. Also, educational projects including a schools plan in the North West with the RSA and schemes for Winchester School of Art.
Which of your projects are you most proud of?
Headonism, where I mentor young milliners and have brought millinery to the forefront of fashion, working with the British Fashion Council and Royal Ascot.
Who or what inspires you?
It could be a conversation, an artwork, or different cultures, but I think my favourite inspiration is architecture, where buildings can be reinterpreted to make beautiful forms on the head. Of course people have inspired me too, whether it’s my first teacher Shirley Hex or my clients.
Which other designer's work do you most admire?
One of the most amazing times was during WWII when ‘make do and mend’ made everyone rely on their creativity. I admire the crafts and headdresses of the Torres Strait peoples in Northern Australia, and the Italian fashion designer Schiaparelli who blended fashion with art. But my favourite is the sculptor Grinling Gibbons who carved wood to look light as air.
If the perfect brief came your way, what would it be?
Design the Serpentine Gallery Pavilion.
If I wasn't a millinery designer I'd be an…
Architect, maybe. But I really think if you’re a good designer you can do anything..
Any advice to aspiring young designers?
Don’t think about it, just do it.